Water Proof

Water Proof Test
1：Fill the cylinder with water up to the red line.
2：Hang the watch on the hook, out of the water and screw on the lid tightly.Be sure that the watch is in the position completely out of the water.
3：Close the air-releasing valve.
4：Increase pressure with the lever, pumping up to any given pressure.1 atmosphere pressure = 10 m depth
5：Immerse the watch into the water.
6：Release air pressure gradually by opening the air-releasing valve.
7：If the watch is not perfectly water-tight, bubbles will emerge where the water tightness is incomplete (e.g. round the crown, glass, back of the case). Please note some bubbles may also appear on the external turning bezel, or the crown, this is because of a little residual external air.
8：Test finish, take out the watch before the indicator reaches zero.

Most people ask: Can I wear my watch to swim ?
Mark on watch Hand Wash Swimming Skin Diving Scuba Diving
Water Resist OK NO NO NO
50 M OK NO NO NO
100 M OK OK OK NO
200 M or more OK OK OK OK
100 M = 330 feet

Caution:
1. Check the water proof of your watch before each Scuba Diving and every year because the water proof mechanism may fail because of aging or daily damage.
2. Do not put the watch in water with soap or detergent. Soap reduces the surface tension of water and let the water goes into the watch easily. Detergent has the same effect as soap and it may damage the rubber seal, too.
A watch marked 50 M of water resist means it can stay steadily under the 50 M of water. When you are swimming, the watch moves violently with your body; therefore, the actual pressure applies on the watch is much more than the pressure applies on the watch under 50 M of water. That is why you cannot wear it to swim.

For the same reason, do not flush a watch under the tap, the pressure of running water is damaging for some expensive water resist dress watch.

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Watch Crystal

Watch crystal is a transparent cover that protects the watch face.
Material :
Acrylic Glass / Plexiglass
Glass /Mineral Glass
Synthetic Sapphire

Advantages and Disadvantages of each materials:
Advantages Disadvantages
Acrylic Glass / Plexiglass cheap most likely to be scratched
Glass /Mineral Glass scratch – resistant more likely to break
Synthetic Sapphire most scratch resistant most expensive

Synthetic Sapphire
One of the hardest substances on earth. It measures 9 on the Mohs scale - Diamond measures 10, the highest rating.

However, if struck sharply and from the correct direction, sapphire will shatter.

Remove the scratch on Acrylic Galss / Plexiglass - Caution ! No guarantee ! Try on your own risks !

1. Put some toothpaste on the Acrylic Galss / Plexiglass and rub it gently with a soft damp cloth.
2. Put some Brasso on Acrylic Galss / Plexiglass and rub it gently with a soft dry cloth.

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TAG Heuer Replica Watches in the World of Sports

Why do TAG Heuer replica watches become increasingly popular over time? The fans of the brand appreciate TAG Heuer timepieces as the leading sports watch models. They are aware that every Tag Heuer replica watch is based upon a prestigious history of the original Swiss watch-making brand. Tag Heuer continues to introduce new technology, having developed the first timekeeping device in the world to measure time accuracy within1/100th of a second. In the most demanding sports even 1/1000th of a second is able to make the difference.

At present, if you are interested in modern sporting events, you are sure to notice that TAG Heuer watches have been closely associated with the most prestigious and famous of them. The brand has been the official timekeeper for the Formula 1 World Championship since 1969, not to mention the brand?s watch is featured on the wrist of Tiger Woods. The brand has also achieved great fame by keeping time for the Olympic Games since the 1920s and the FIS Ski World Cup since 1992. TAG Heuer?s successful partnership with Team McLaren Mercedes was marked by cooperation with Mika H?kkinen, Driver World Champion of 1998-1999 and with David Coulthard, the champion of the celebrated Monaco Grand Prix in 2000 and 2002. David Coulthard greatly contributed to the elaboration of the TAG Heuer Microtimer watch. TAG Heuer's prolonged firm relationship with the world of sports encourages the appearance of innovative designs distinctive for their vigor and grace united with functionality and refinement. Being based upon such high-profile events, it is no surprise the Tag Heuer Formula 1 watch was born.

Among TAG Heuer replica watches you will discover a rich selection of timepieces aimed at those involved in any kind of sports activity. Tag Heuer watch line of stylish sports watches and chronographs comprises reliable timekeeping companions from the Tag Heuer Formula 1 and more recent Tag Heuer Link watch series.

Tag Heuer‘s Formula 1 Replica Watch Collection

The design of the Tag Heuer Formula 1 replica watches is first of all associated with Kimi R?ikonen?s driving his McLaren Mercedes. Tag Heuer?s Formula 1 watch collection has been designed in a successful attempt to make an auto-racing lovers? dream come true. The Formula 1 watch was initially introduced by Tag Heuer in 1986. Several of the world?s most prominent auto-racing drivers have been honored to become the timepiece?s ambassadors, with Kimi R?ikonen racing for Team McLaren Mercedes Formula One being the most famous of all since 2004.

The first thing you will probably notice about the Formula 1 replica watches is their bright colors. Tag Heuer managed to bring the daring color design to the higher level, having united the dial color with accents put on the outside of the case. If you are interested in the red dial variation, your timepiece will feature red accents on the external edge of the case. The watches with the black and white dial types demonstrate black accents; consequently the blue dial has blue accents. If you prefer more unconventional shades, why not to acquire the orange dial model, accompanied with the orange rubber strap? It is not for shy personalities.

The Formula 1 watches have been developed in both a chrono and automatic version. The automatic watch model features a dial with silver sub dials and a small date window placed between four and five o'clock. You will see the brand?s Logo below 12 o?clock mark, with the Formula 1 name placed above six o'clock.

If you would like to own a sportier Formula 1 model, pay your attention to the chrono version. The minute and hour sub dials are presented with either black on white or silver on black. The seconds sub dial of the Formula 1 watch is highly distinctive. Tag Heuer designers created the seconds counter for the chronograph featuring the combination of three colors each covering 20 seconds. The colors chosen for the Formula 1 Watches will strongly remind you of a real race automobile dashboard.

Choose a Tag Heuer Formula 1 replica watch if you feel attracted by active leisure time spending, for example, biking, racing or skiing but it is also the ideally suitable timekeeping companion to be worn at a cool party.

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The prize-winners of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2008

Premier rang : Georges-Henri Meylan (Audemars Piguet), Jérôme Lambert (Jaeger-Lecoultre), Jean-Christophe Babin (TAG Heuer), François-Paul Journe (Montres Journe), Juan Carlos Torrès (Vacheron Constantin), Philippe Léopold-Metzger (Piaget), Marianne de Cocatrix (Miss Suisse Romande 2008)

Deuxième rang, de gauche à droite: Giulio Papi (horloger concepteur), Fabienne Lupo (Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie), Martin Bachmann (Maurice Lacroix), Vincent Perriard (Concord), Glenn Thomkins (meilleur élève de première année de l'école d'horlogerie de Genève).

The most prestigious prize, the "Aiguille d'Or" ("Golden Hand"), was given this year to the watch by F.P. Journe: The Centigraph Souverain. This new chronograph conquered the hearts and minds of the jury.

With a dozen different prize categories, the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix honours the most creative watchmaking brands every year. Officially supported by the City and State of Geneva, the ceremony attracted the leading managers, journalists and aficionados of the watchmaking world. Presided by Pierre-François Unger, State Councillor, and Manuel Tornare, Mayor of Geneva, in front of a crowd of more than 1500 guests, it was a not-to-be-missed event for international horology.

Adjudged by an international jury of recognized professionals, the prizes consecrate the winners of the following categories: Favourite Ladies' Watch, Favourite Men's Watch, Favourite Design Watch, Favourite Jewellery Watch, Favourite Watch with complication, Favourite Sports Watch, and Favourite Full Calendar Watch, as well as the Best Watchmaker Prize, the Jury's Prize, the Public Prize and the "Golden Hand" Grand Prix.

The winning watches, in addition to all the other preselected timepieces, can be viewed until the 21st of November in the UBS Corraterie branch office in the centre of Geneva.

List of the prize-winners of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2008

Grand Prix « l'Aiguille d'or » (Golden Hand Prize)F.P. Journe, Centigraphe Souverain
Best Watchmaker PrizeGiulio Papi
Special Jury PrizeFondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Favourite Ladies WatchPiaget, Limelight Magic Hour
Favourite Men's WatchVacheron Constantin, Quai de l'Ile
Favourite Design WatchConcord, C1 Tourbillon Gravity
Favourite Jewellery WatchAudemars Piguet, Millenary Pianoforte
Favourite Watch with complicationJaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2
Favourite Sports WatchTAG Heuer, Grande Carrera Calibre 36 RS Caliper Chronographe
Favourite Full Calendar WatchAudemars Piguet, Equation du Temps Squelette Jules Audemars
Public PrizeMaurice Lacroix, Starside Eternal Moon
The prize-giving ceremony of the 8th Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix took place on November 13, at the Grand Théâtre of Geneva, illuminated by Gerry Hostetter.

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The Cult favourite Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris & the link to the United States

JAEGER-LECOULTRE AND WATERPROOF TIMEPIECES FOR DIVING
In June 2007, off the coast of Hawaii, a Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV) built for Industrial deep sea operation plunged to a depth of 1080M. Secured to its metal structure was a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving GMT watch - strapped onto an open and exposed compartment and monitored by a video feed from the ROV. The whole operation was witnessed by the professional and industrial operating crew, Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jerome Lambert and a few privileged international journalists. The same exclusive operation was repeated in the Celebes Sea off Manado in November 2007; this time, another Master Compressor Diving GMT was immersed to a depth of 1088M. As expected by everyone fortunate enough to witness the procedure, the timepiece survived both tests flawlessly. The watch remained accurate, reliable and undamaged on both occasions.
This experiment was the first time a naked wristwatch was witnessed to be tested to such depth outside the theoretical laboratory environment and in the real ocean. As Jaeger-LeCoultre made its indelible mark in haute horlogerie diving watches meant for professionals, it is worth noting that the brand took its first baby diving step in the year 1911…
In a patent (No.FR427.532) applied by Jaeger on 30th May 1911 and granted on 5th August of the same year, Jaeger-LeCoultre mastered a “case system for a watch in two parts fitted one on top of the other, which also has the advantage of being extremely easy to produce and assemble while ensuring a very hermetic seal”. This technique was originally designed to seal the watch against dust, but the basic principle would become useful as the world became increasingly fascinated by water sports and sea explorations.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE AND THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
When one sees the pervasive presence of Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces in Asia, Europe, North and South America, the global reach of the brand seems natural and logical. In the pre and post World War II period however, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s historical links were strongest in France, Switzerland and the United States of America. LeCoultre & Cie Le Sentier has been the most important movement supplier to the Swiss haute horlogerie brands, and for all intents and purposes; Edmond Jaeger was French and it was him who brought LeCoultre’s watch-making expertise to the French haute horlogerie market.
Although the serious study into JLC’s strong American links is yet to be completed, it was obvious that the unpatented LeCoultre crown winding system was widely adopted by American watchmakers since 1847. Between 1853 and 1857, Founder Antoine LeCoultre associate and son-in-law Jean Gallay finished the LeCoultre watches within his workshop and exported to US via Dorsival of New York. In 1878, Elie Lecoultre also had to set up a new finishing workshop to produce 5000 of Jaeger-LeCoultre 19BV and 19BS calibres meant for Mathey Mathey & Company of New York viaFrères Bertollet (Ponts-de-Martel). By 1885, LeCoultre had delivered simple calibres, chronographs, quarter and minute repeaters movements to the US market.
Most LeCoultre watches were unsigned until 1929, when the “LeCoultre” name appeared on the dial for the first time. At the same time LeCoultre watches were distributed by a company “Spécialites Horlogeres” (SH, subsequently renamed SA des produits Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1937). The company LeCoultre S.H. of America was later setup in 1936 to assert control of LeCoultre watches in the US.
Corporate restructure in 1938 led to Jaeger-LeCoultre and Genevan Vacheron Constantin falling into the same hand of ‘Societe anonyme des participations Industrielles et commerciales’ (SAPIC) and to create synergies within their complex distribution structures in USA, both brands decided to work with Wittnauer, a distribution company established in US since 1866. The partnership between JLC and Wittnauer was to last till 1970s.
To the loyal Jaeger-LeCoultre fans however, the most important role of the American is the origin of their cult favourite, the POLARIS diving watches.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS, THE CULT FAVOURITE
As Water Sports and Scuba Diving in particular became the rage in the 1950s, JLC was slowly acquiring the experience in creating a diving watch. The catalytic push however was initiated by Mr. Lowe, the President of LeCoultre Watch Inc. in New York. He submitted a letter to the JLC Board of Directors for the creation of a Diver’s watch, which was accepted by the watch making house. The resultant product was the 1959 Memovox Deep Sea (E857) equipped with calibre 815, the first diver’s alarm watch.
Between 1959 and 1970, Jaeger-LeCoultre was to create a dozen evocatively named diver’s models such as Shark, Voguematic, Dolphin and Barracuda. In vintage catalogues, products names vared according to the intended markets. This practice was commonplace and like all other watches produced by the Manufacture at that time; they were marketed in the US under the LeCoultre brand name whereas in the other markets like Switzerland and France, it carried the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature.
Unknown to JLC at that time, the most famous diving watch would be born in 1963, when JLC created a pre-series of 50 ‘Memovox Diver’s Watch’. Driven by its perpetual quest for innovation, JLC introduced a 42mm watch, a case which was exceptionally large for its time. The large size was perfect for its readability underwater and together with the characteristically JLC triangular alarm hour marker, it gave the watch a distinctive ageless style still very much admired today.
A system was developed to make the watch alarm ring louder underwater. To avoid the sound being muffled by contact with the neoprene diving suit or by direct contact with the watch movement itself, a triple-backed case was used, to ensure water resistance to a depth of 200 metres. It was also equipped with the patented Piquerez Compressor system. To guarantee enhanced security, the bezel was also placed under the dial and activated by a third super-watertight crown positioned between the two characteristic Memovox crowns. The case-back was also stamped with the “Compressor” logo, indicating the ultra water-resistant nature of the watch, this name was later used by JLC in their new Master Compressor line of watches.
For this model, the JLC Calibre 825 was used, featuring an alarm, date window and a cadence of 18,000 vibrations per hour. Like the 42mm case itself, the movement was also large for a wristwatch, corresponding to 14 lignes, meaning 31.6mm in diameter and 7.5mm thick. These spacious dimensions made it possible to endow the mechanism with all the attributes required of a sports watch: durability, precision, reliability and pragmatic functions.
The E859 Memovox Diver’s watch was launched as “Polaris” in the United States; this was suggested by the American as being entirely in tune with the adventurous spirit typical of this period where people were fascinated by polar exploration, oceanographic discoveries and the space race.
It was a period of time when the North Pole (Nautilus) was conquered; Cousteau was exploring the world’s oceans, A depth record of 10,916M was set by Jacques Piccard and Donald Walsh in the “Trieste bathyscaphe”, and also a time of space conquests. Although ‘Polaris’ is the pole star which guides sailors and explorers, the name is more likely due to the first Polaris missile launched by the American Armed Forces in 1961.
The ultra secret Polaris missile project was initiated in 1955 and built by the United States Navy. The missile launch marked a new escalation of the cold war arm race with the then Soviet Union. Considering the rave American media interest on the Polaris missile and the wildly patriotic and hawkish public opinion of the time, this assumption was a logical one.
The Polaris was made and marketed in a total production run of 1,714 watches issued between 1965 and 1970, were delivered on a rubber polymer straps and steel bracelets. The production number, modest by today’s standard was considered a huge success for non mass-marketed specialised timepieces. The Polaris watch, especially the popular 1968 version, remain one of the most highly sought-after diver’s watches among the collectors today. The big, bold, fresh and highly distinctive designs worked as it was introduced in a period where Americans were (and still are), dynamic, adventurous and forward looking.
In 1971, a second version was created and named Memovox Polaris II in the US. Enriched with the latest technological breakthrough, it took the conquest of precision to another level. Its Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 916 belongs to the generation of high-frequency automatic movements that the Manufacture began creating in the 1970s. Its balance oscillates at a cadence of 28,800vph, enabling it to reach new heights of accuracy. The oscillating weight replacing the former winding system spins freely on its axis and was hence dubbed the ‘rotor’. Whichever way it turns, the device equipped with an eccentric and with two spring-clicks to wind the spring barrel. The fact that this movement is still used in the modern Master Compressor Memovox is eloquent proof of its incredible performances.
The Memovox Polaris II was housed within a shockingly revolutionary design at that time. Three dimensional in look, the extremely large egg shaped case framed a dial in blue – the last colour still visible below water. Eleven hundred and twenty Memovox Polaris II watches were made between 1970 and 1972. The dials of the American models carried the initials “HPG” meaning High Precision Guarantee and implying the high-frequency. While some of those for the non Polaris French market featured the letters “GT” (Grande Taille) shaped to form a triangle.
Unlike some LeCoultre watches made in Le Sentier but cased in the US, all the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris and diving watches were produced entirely in Switzerland and shipped complete to the market due to the stringent requirement of the waterproof (now referred as water-resistant) cases.
The cult status of Polaris is undeniably affirmed and the then outrageous size and designs, the 1965 and the 1968 models in particular, are increasingly beautiful and ageless as time passes. There is little doubt that the watch remains a true classic today.
If the Polaris didn’t happen, and is launched today, it would be assumed and accepted as a functional, modern and contemporary timepiece would be instantly popular and successful in a market hungry for new ideas and interesting products.
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What are fake and counterfeit watches?

Most popular makes of fine watches are prone to having their designs copied by manufacturers of replica watches. These watches sell from as little as US$10 to several hundred dollars -- but US$100-150 appears to be the most common range. They vary from generic look-alike to exacting reproductions of the exteriors of the genuine watch. Often, even details such as the manufacturers logo, serial numbers, and other markings are reproduced.

Quality and durability can vary highly. One Internet site selling replica Omega watches reported the average life span of many of them to be only 2 to 3 years.

So far, the makers of these watches appear to mainly be making counterfeits of current and recent model watches. Presumably, there is not a large enough market for fakes of older and vintage watches to make it worthwhile to pursue.

But also understand that counterfeit watches are not a new concept -- so you may occasionally encounter fake watches made many years ago. Some of these older fakes were watches of other cheaper brands that were relabeled by repainting the dial with a different logo and at times even stamping the back or movement with marks like would have appeared on the other brand.

Possessing such a watch is not illegal. But the maker and sellers of the replicas are usually in violation of the legal copyrights on the original manufacturer's copyrights and trademarks.

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Ryser Watches

After having worked for the Cantonales Technikum institute and at Rado Watches, Ryser Kentfield moved to the USA to start his Swiss Timepieces store in 1990. He tried his own brand at the JCK Show in Las Vegas, but as he says in an interview with Keith W. Strandberg (Europastar) ?it is very difficult because people want a known brand name?. Ryser Kentfield now tries to get retailers world wide, to sell his watches and to get a bit of attention for his brand name. He makes and sells 700 watches a year, but predicts it will be somewhere between 1000 and 2000 pieces in 2007. His watches start at 1100 USD and use an ETA 2824-2 self-winding movement. His website, feature background information on his brand, online collection of watches and a list of retailers. His watches are available in stainless steel, 10micro rose gold plating or yellow gold with PVD coating. I have one tip for mr Kentfield there… get rid of the 10micro rose gold plating and yellow gold with PVD coating.. Those types of inferior finish of materials gives a brand a bad rep. Anyway, all the luck to Ryser Kentfield and his line of watches!

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Swatch O'Neill Big Mountain Pro 2007 to Start on the First Spring Day

The 1st of March, 2007 will mark the beginning of the Swatch O'Neill Big Mountain Pro 2007 event. The first day of spring will bring the inauguration of the new mobile free-ride contest for experienced snowboarders and skiers.

The event will take place in the European Alps with the Swiss resort of Laax as the starting point and the Austrian city of Innsbruck as the finishing point. The competitors will fight for the E 60,000 prize purse.

The Swatch O'Neill Big Mountain Pro will be held in a mobile contest format. It will provide all the participants with opportunity to demonstrate their snowboarding and skiing skills in the most suitable snow pack conditions, as well as enjoy the views of the most impressive mountain sites. It is noteworthy that all the riders and skiers will be provided with exceptional lift and helicopter access to have more chances for exploring the area.

The organizers of the event have scheduled three days of the competition to take place on three different mountains. Every chosen site will feature different terrain type with steeps, cliffs and surface more friendly for freestyle-lovers. They have also chosen five potential playgrounds. The event will comprise Graubuenden (St Moritz/Davos) and Grand St Bernard (Verbier) in Switzerland, Alagna (Monte Rosa) in Italy, and Chamonix in France( that is considered to be the home of free-riding). The list of stop-offs is finished by Arlberg in France.

The Swatch O'Neill Big Mountain Pro 2007, promising to bring a new revolutionary stage into the realms of free-ride competitions, will gather sixteen internationally leading snowboarders and skiers. Just look through the celebrity list:

Among the professional snowboarders to participate in the contest there will be Jeremy Jones, five-time Big Mountain Rider of the Year, Steve Klassen, well-known US big mountain snowboarder, as well as freestyle stars - Stefan Gimpl from Austria and Jules Reymond from Switzerland.

As for the skiers, there will compete Eric Hjorleifson and Hugo Harrisson, three-time IFSA World Champion from Canada, Seb Michaud and Aurelien Ducroz from France, Loris Falquet and Phil Meier from Switzerland, and Kaj Zackrisson and Sverre Liliequiest from Sweden.

The organizers of the innovative Swatch O'Neill Big Mountain Pro 2007 event, have planned to broadcast the course of the competition live and semi-live through the web to give everyone interested an opportunity to watch the ultimate free-ride event.

As the final stage of the event, all the participants of the competition will meet in Innsbruck to watch video recording of their performance and vote for the winners to get the money prize.

The Swatch Fun Boarder Special Edition watch has been created by Swatch to commemorate the inauguration of the Swatch O'Neill Big Mountain Pro. The timepieces is equipped with a built-in altimeter and features exclusive Swatch Snowpass technology.

The participants of the event will use the Swatch watch not only for timekeeping - they will also find out how many meters above sea level they are at the moment and pass easily through lift access controls with no need for tickets. The Big Mountain Swatch Fun Boarder Special Edition has been elaborated specially to satisfy the needs of skiers and snowboarders. The timepiece also demonstrates an injected-molded silicon logo of the event on the 12 o'clock strap.

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Review of the Orbita Tourbillon Watch Winder

The Orbita Tourbillon is the Porsche of watch winders. It's modern, sleek, sexy, and it ain't cheap. But for the enthusiast who wants the best for his watches, the Orbita will keep them running with both style and precision.

The Orbita Tourbillon looks a little like a bomb from a Die Hard movie with its exposed circuitry and extremely bright LEDs. The chassis is made from four 10mm thick pieces of glass joined together by clear epoxy. Inside, three circuit boards are screwed in place and support two fantastically bright LEDs, and two stainless steel rollers. On top of the rollers rests the barrels inside of which your well wound and precisely rotated automatic watches are tucked, wrapped snuggly around self-conforming foam cushions. Although the barrels are stainless steel, they are lined with soft and gentle plastic which won't scratch your steel, gold, or platinum bracelets, and the rollers have rubber gaskets for securely and quietly gripping and turning the barrels.

Each circuit board contains two LED readouts. The one on the left tells you how many times the watch has been turned, and resets itself automatically at midnight. The LED on the right is actually a highly accurate quartz clock which makes perfect sense as it allows you to calibrate your less accurate automatic watch as you're putting it on in the morning. Bright blue LEDs are soldered below the circuit boards and flash in configurable patterns to draw even more attention to this modern piece of functional industrial art.

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Where to Find Antique Clock Repair Parts

If you're an antique clock collector you know that the most important item in your inventory is where to obtain antique clock parts. Where can you get them and at a reasonable price? Read on for hints and tips on how to find antique clock parts online and off and what to expect to keep your favorite antique clocks running and on time!

The first and most obvious place to begin looking is in your own area - you'd be surprised at how many businesses still deal in maintaining and repairing antique clocks! They are sure to have antique clock parts in stock as well as having easy access to those more rare parts and be able to order them in. As well they can install the antique clock parts safely and securely to make sure that your antique clock will continue to run.

Of course, there is always the source of all things online. However, unless you know what exactly you're looking for in the way of antique clock parts you might find yourself lost in page after page of listings as well as not knowing what a good price is.

Instead, start your search at a good online site.com. Here you can start from the very beginning in your search for antique clock parts from researching your antique clock to finding the antique clock parts needed to keep it running in the database to checking the free classified section to find what you want.

Another excellent online resource is www.hellorolex.com. Here you can find everything from the Stratford wall clock to atomic clocks and in between. From simple antique clock parts such as hands and a face to the complicated insides of a grandfather clock you can find it here or in the free catalog.

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Watch

watch small, portable timepiece usually designed to be worn on the person. Other kinds of timepieces are generally referred to as clocks . At one time it was generally believed that the first watches were made in Nuremburg, Germany, c.1500. However, there is now evidence that watches may have appeared at an earlier date in Italy. Early watches were ornate, very heavy, and made in a variety of shapes, e.g., pears, skulls, and crosses; the faces were protected by metal latticework. Watch parts were made by hand until c.1850, when machine methods were introduced by watch manufacturers in the United States. The introduction of machine-made parts not only cut manufacturing costs but increased precision and facilitated repairs. To insure the accuracy of a watch over a long period, bearings made of jewels (usually synthetic sapphires or rubies) are utilized at points subject to heavy wear. The mechanical watch contains a mainspring to drive the watch's mechanism. Part of the mechanism includes a hairspring and an oscillating balance wheel to control the rate at which the mechanism moves. The mainspring is wound by the wearer when he turns a knob outside the watch's casing. The automatic, or self-winding, watch has a mainspring that is wound by an oscillating weight, contained in the watch, that is set into motion by the movements of the wearer. The stopwatch can be stopped or started at will by pressing a tiny button on its edge and is used for timing such events as races. The electric watch, which was introduced by the Hamilton Watch Company in 1957, also uses a hairspring and a balance wheel to regulate the rate at which its mechanism moves, but it has no mainspring. In recent years sophisticated electronic watches have been developed. One type uses the vibrations of an electrically driven tuning fork to determine the rate at which a small motor drives the hands. In another type a crystal oscillator provides a signal that regulates this motion. In the most common type a quartz crystal oscillator is joined to digital counting and digital display circuits, thus eliminating all moving parts. See liquid crystal . Quartz watches with digital displays now account for nearly half of all watch production, since they are inexpensive to produce but are accurate to within several seconds per month. Electric and electronic watches are powered by tiny long-lasting batteries. See chronometer .

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What is a Railroad Watch?

Many folks inaccurately describe any watch that is old as a "Railroad Watch".

The term "Railroad Watch" or "Standard Watch" can be traced back to the late 1880's. The most famous incident, the straw that broke the camel's back, occured on April 19th, 1891. A fast mail train known as No. 4 traveling east on the same track as an accomodation train was going West. Unfortunately the engineer's watch on the accomodation train had stopped for 4 minutes, and then started up again. The two trains met their destiny at Kipton, Ohio, where both engineers were killed, along with nine others.

Following the disaster, a commission was appointed to come up with standards for timepieces that would be adopted by all railroads. The industry now had to demand precision in its timekeeping. Thus were born some of the finest timepieces ever made in the world!!! The General Railroad Timepiece Standards were adopted by most railroads in 1893. They had to meet the following standards:

A railroad watch had to be open faced, size 16 or 18, have a minimum of 17 jewels, adjusted to at least five positions, keep time accurately to within 30 seconds a week, adjusted to temps of 34 - 100F, have a double roller, steel escape wheel, lever set, winding stem at 12 o'clock, and have bold black arabic numerals on a white dial.

After WW2, the requirements were tightened up to 21 jewels on some lines.

Therefore, just because it is old, does not mean it is a Railroad Watch, just a good old Antique watch!

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Mechanical movements

Compared to electronic movements, mechanical watches are less accurate, often with errors of seconds per day, and they are sensitive to position and temperature. As well, they are costly to produce, they require regular maintenance and adjustment, and they are more prone to failure. Nevertheless, the "old world" craftsmanship of mechanical watches still attracts interest from part of the watch-buying public.

Mechanical movements use an escapement mechanism to control and limit the unwinding of the watch, converting what would otherwise be a simple unwinding, into a controlled and periodic energy release. Mechanical movements also use a balance wheel together with the balance spring (also known as Hairspring) to control motion of the gear system of the watch in a manner analogous to the pendulum of a pendulum clock. The tourbillon, an optional part for mechanical movements, is a rotating frame for the escapement which is intended to cancel out or reduce the effects of bias to the timekeeping of gravitational origin. Due to the complexity designing a tourbillon, they are very expensive, and only found in "prestige" watches. The pin-lever (also called Roskopf movement after its inventor, Georges Frederic Roskopf), is a cheaper version of the fully levered movement which was manufactured in huge quantities by many Swiss manufacturers as well as Timex, until it was replaced by quartz movements.

Tuning fork watches use a type of electromechanical movements. Introduced by Bulova in 1960, they use a tuning fork at a precise frequency (most often 360 hertz) to drive a mechanical watch. The task of converting electronically pulsed fork vibration into rotary movement is done via two tiny jeweled fingers, called pawls. Tuning fork watches were rendered obsolete when electronic quartz watches were developed, because quartz watches were cheaper to produce and even more accurate.

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Tudor Watch Company History

Tudors are watches made by Rolex. In fact the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, is also the founder of Tudor.

In 1905 Wilsdorf set up his own company in England and began producing high quality watches. It was in 1908 that he began the Rolex brand. He ran the business in England for about fifteen years and then moved to Geneva in 1920.

Hans Wilsdorf first opened Tudor watches in 1946. The brand name Tudor was chosen because Wilsdorf wanted to pay tribute to the Tudor period of England.

The most important difference between Rolex and Tudor was already inherent in the 1940's when the first Tudor Oyster reached the market: Inside the screwed-in Oyster case, there was not a Rolex manufactured movement, but a movement supplied by Ebauches SA, ETA. The Rolex company still places value today on the fact that the modified automatic calibers by ETA are "especially made for Tudor."

The best sales argument for Tudor was always their direct connection to Rolex. Conceived right from the beginning as the "second" brand, Tudor is more moderately priced than its bigger, more famous brother. Genuine Tudor watches are sold through official Rolex retailers but are currently not available in the United States. It continues to be sold in Europe, Asia and Canada.

Tudor watches were used by the French Navy for its divers, with the first Tudor Submariners being purchased in the late 1960’s. Additionally the same model was used by the US Navy for its UDT and Navy Seals.

The most well known celebrity used by Tudor for advertising their Hydronaut is Tiger Woods. The ad features an image of Tiger teeing off and implies that the Hydronaut is as tough as a tiger.

Even with an aristocratic name of its own, a Tudor is still a Rolex.

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Watch Buying Made Easy

Buying a wristwatch is a very personal experience. Many people buy watches on impulse and never give any thought to the quality of what they are buying. I love dial work and complications while others buy name brands with no regard to the quality of the watch they are buying.

There are some easy steps to make this process painless and enjoyable. Internet is a great way to buy timepieces but there are some pitfalls. Follow these rules and you'll get the best watch for the best money spent.

1. Know your seller- Make sure you check the feedback left for the seller by previous customers. Check their rating and make sure you are dealing with a reputable dealer.

2. Stay within your means- Don't buy products because you like them, make sure you can afford them. Collectors always stay within their means so they can buy more watches and increase their collection.

3. Know your movements- Watches come basically in three types. Mechanical(have to wind), Automatic(self winding), and quartz(battery). Not all movements are created equally so know what you buying. Swiss movements are generally good but like anything else there are dogs. The movements from the orient are getting better and better by the day so don't shy away from them. Just because the seller tells you that it's a swiss movement doesn't mean it's made in Switzerland. If you want a Swiss made watch it's always marked on the bottom of the dial- Swiss Made.

4. Cases- Stainless cases are generally the best and the sturdiest. Again not all cases are made equally. Some well known brands that I won't mention use very cheap cases to hold the price down. Make sure the case is 316L stainless steel and not a composite.

5. Ask Questions- Probably the most important aspect of buying on internet. If a seller is reputable he will answer your question rapidly and honestly. Don't buy anything you're not 100% satisfied with, only trouble will follow.

Collectors generally make the best sellers because they treasure their watches and take care of them. Sometimes a watch from a collector is a better deal than a watch from a reseller. We know what we are selling and can answer any concerns you may have.

I hope this has been instructive for you and good bidding.

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IS IT REAL GOLD ?

Beware of the pitfalls when wanting to purchase or sell ANY item described as GOLD. To be named and promoted as 'gold' (in most countries of the world) it must be a solid gold construction and so marked:

There are various markings both current and older (now unused) The markings are of two types. In North America we use: 10 karat, 14 karat, 18 karat and 22 karat. These MUST be stamped on the item, with the manufactures logo or name ! There are short forms for 'karat' as: 'KT' or "K' In Europe they use the metric % which is older and accurate too. 10 kt is 375 14 kt is 485 18 kt is 750 and 22 kt Historically there was also 9 kt (used in the UK) and 15 karat

The metric % is very good as it indicates the % of gold to the alloy used therein.

The term 'solid gold' is accurate being 10 kt, 14 kt etc.

The fact is the term pure gold..means just that. It is very very rare so do not use the term. Even gold coins have some alloy, usually being 22 parts pure gold to 2 parts alloy.

To understand that back in time, someone decided that pure gold would be divided into 24 parts, or sections, (whatever)

Therefore 14 karat would be 14 parts pure gold to 10 parts alloy mix. (think chocolate cake, at 90 % white cake mix to 10 % chocolate, giving the color and taste) To be aware then think metric %

The so called gold plating is very ambiguous and it is were the problems arise. To editorialize: "I recently looked to buy a watch bracelet, the seller described it a solid 18 kt....however it was not, It was electro- plated with a thin layer of (likely) real 18 karat gold, but the layer is so thin one could cut a cross section & be unable to measure it. It wears off very quickly.

True rolled gold plate (RGP), and that is the term was/is made by fusing a layer of say 14 kt solid gold to a base metal, usually copper. It must measure 1/10 of the total thickness (it can be distrubuted partially on the front and back) It was common for watch cases & sometimes they called it : 10 year warrenty. It must be so marked with the Mfg logo or name.

True Gold filled (GF) was the same method but must be twice as thick or 1/5 (or 1/20)

The Europeans used and electo plating method but allowed it to build up the equivelet of RGP or GF and they called it micron. The micron layer to match RGP was '20' and '40' for Gold filled ! Note: I can be corrected on these #'s Editorial: I notice that a lot of new and very expensive watch brands use 3 or 5 micron ! Most sales clerks do not know or understand, I can never get a proper answer from them & it is very frustrating. These layers will wear off quickly.

There is more detail available, this is presented as a 'quick overview' but please try and understand and comply. We must end the errors that occur in 'gold' listings PS: gold is spelled 'karat' ONLY with a 'K' Carat with a "C" is gem weight ! Do not err.

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Watches Buying Guide-Evaluate Watch Features

When shopping for watches, determine if they come with the extra features you may want.
· Watches with calendars: Day date watches display both the date and day of the week. Full calendar watches display the date, day of the week, and month.
· Chronograph watches: Chronograph watches act as a stopwatch and use a meter to measure elapsed time. Chronographs can come in split seconds format to measure two time segments simultaneously or consecutively.
· Water resistant watches: This feature is usually described on the dial or back of the case. A watch's water resistance is measured in feet, metres, or atmospheres (ATM). Watches that are water resistant up to 30 metres are splash-proof. Water resistant watches up to 50 metres can be worn in the shower. If you want to go swimming with a watch on then look for watches that have a water resistance rating of 100 metres. A water resistance rating of 200 metres indicates that the watch can be worn scuba diving.
· Watches with moonphase indicators: Watches that have moonphase indicators have a display that indicates the phase of the moon with an image on a rotating disk.
· Watches with tourbillons: Tourbillons, are small but very costly mechanisms, found in mechanical watches, that can help eliminate potential time errors.
· Watches with a tachymeter: Tachymeter scales measure average speed by calculating time and pre-measured distance. They are located around the rim of a watch dial and are used along with a chronograph.
· Watches with repeaters: Watches that have a repeater announce the time through a series of chimes when you press a button.
· Telemeter scale watches: Telemeter scales can measure the distance between a watch wearer and an object that generates a visible signal or a loud noise (such as an electrical storm or a fired cannon).
· World time watches: Watches with a world time feature indicate time in all time zones around the world. You can often choose the name of a major city in a certain time zone to see the time in that time zone.

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Citizen Develops 18.5mm-diameter Movement for Atomic Watches

Citizen Watch Co Ltd developed a watch movement measuring 18.5mm in diameter and 3.42 in thickness, smaller than a one-yen coin (20mm in diameter) or a nickel (21.21mm) , for use in ladies watches.

The company calls it "the World's Smallest Eco-drive Atomic Watch Movement 'H010.'"

The volume of the movement is about 20% smaller than that of the existing products. The small movement enhances variations in watch design and allows downsizing of atomic watches. Initially, the H010 will be used in the "Exceed Ladies Collection," which will be released in mid Oct 2008.

The H010 has miniaturized parts and double-sided circuit boards. The diameter and thickness of the movement was downsized by reducing the size of the antenna as well, while maintaining the receiving sensitivity.

A calendar function was added to the downsized movement. This is the first time a ladies eco-drive watch has been equipped with this function, according to the company.

It has an antimagnetic property that complies with JIS1, which was believed to be difficult to attain in an atomic watch with a built-in antenna. The property is at a level resistant to a 4,800A/m DC field.

It is also equipped with a function to detect external impact and control the second and minute hands to prevent their displacement. In addition, it is capable of detecting locations of hands periodically to make necessary corrections, in case a deviation of the hands from the time counter inside the IC is confirmed.

The battery life is three years under power saving mode, if fully charged. The amount of charge is displayed so that the user can check how much remains.

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Concept watches blur the line between dream and reality

de Grisogono; Harry Winston At Baselworld 2008, de Grisogono test marketed its Meccanico dG, above, without a working prototype. If it works, it will be the first all- mechanical watch with an integrated digital display.

When the Opus 3 by Vianney Halter and Harry Winston was unveiled at Baselworld in 2003, it was hailed as a design revolution, described by the international watch industry magazine Europa Star as the "most astonishing watch of the year."

The mechanical watch had a jumping digital display - in which the numbers jump, rather than slide, into view - with the date, hour, and minute numerals appearing in six small display windows arranged in two rows - the hour and minute digits showing horizontally in the four corner windows with the date read vertically down the central column. Vianney had also made a totally new and unique crown with four adjustment positions - for winding, for adjusting the minutes, for the hours and for the date.

Collectors rushed to put their names down for one of the 55 limited-edition pieces and the watch went on to win the Geneva Grand Prix for technical achievement.

There was only one problem: the watch did not work.

"Vianney Halter, who was in charge of the project, underestimated the complexity of the development," said Maximilian Büsser, the founder of MB&F, who was managing director of the timepieces unit of Harry Winston between 1998 and 2005. "He clearly thought it was going to work and therefore so did we. Up to the last minute before unveiling it in Basel, we would never have imagined the watch would not be delivered over the following twelve months."

Next March, at long last, after nearly $1 million of additional development spending and after going though another two watchmaking teams, a working Opus 3 will finally be presented at Baselworld 2009.

"We have something working now that we developed with the Cellule des Spécialités Horlogères of AP-Renaud et Papi," said David Gouten, vice president in charge of international watch and jewelry sales at Harry Winston, referring to Renaud et Papi, the advanced movement design and fabrication unit of Audemars Piguet. "We've been fighting to bring this watch out for the last five years."

Despite the extra development cost, Harry Winston has decided not to increase the watch's original price. "I guess that's the price you have to pay for what, for all that, Opus 3 gave us in terms of credibility and innovation," Gouten said. The Opus 3 will retail between 85,000 Swiss francs, or about $70,000, and 135,000 francs.

Surprising collectors year after year has become a must in the watchmaking world and watch manufacturers have been increasingly hyping their products, competing to be first to unveil the next big idea. In a recent article in the specialist magazine Revolution, the journalist Declan Quinn complained that brands were trying to generate a tidal wave of publicity and press coverage for watches that, in reality, do not exist - or exist only as three-dimensional computer images and mock-up prototypes.

"The reason why brands are usually willing to present concept watches is because they get an enormous amount of publicity in the press," Büsser agreed.

The downside of the presentation of fantasy concepts is that they can get in the way of real development, said Jérôme Lambert, chief executive of Jaeger-LeCoultre. "This has had a very bad effect on the market," he said. "We have had to abandon at least three or four projects over the last two years because people presented ideas without realization.

"They were 3-D presentations and I didn't see the real watch, but we couldn't pursue what we were working on because we felt we wouldn't have been original anymore."

Most so-called concept watches eventually see the light of day. But, as in the case of Opus 3, it can take years before they are delivered.

Some collectors appear relaxed about having to wait. Bernard Cheong, a Singaporean watch collector who was one of the first to order the Opus 3, said that he did not mind the delay.

"I've also been waiting for another very complex watch, by Volker, since 2004," he said, referring to the independent watchmaker Volker Vyskocil.

Still, others are frustrated by what they see as an increasingly hyped market.

"They tell you how it's going to work, they show you a video, but they won't let you touch or feel the watch," said Ng Tjeng Jaw, another Singaporean collector. "It's very frustrating. You should have a working prototype when you're launching and you should be able to deliver the watch to the customers within two years."

In recent years, several other concept watches have been unveiled that have yet to materialize. These include the Monaco V4 by TAG Heuer, introduced in 2004, and the Mémoire 1 by Maurice Lacroix, first presented in 2007.

The Monaco V4 abandoned classic watchmaking technology, replacing the conventional gear wheels and pinions with drive belts and ball bearings; but transmission problems have taken time to fix.

Mémoire 1 - with only two hands, one for minutes and one for seconds, and a disk to indicate the hours - will be the first mechanical watch with a memory function, a completely new "grande complication."

At the press of a button integrated into the crown, the watch will change from time-telling to chronometer mode. When the button is pressed again, the hands will return to time-telling mode, showing the correct time thanks to a mechanical memory.

"It is a monumental process which will take years to fulfill," Sandro Reginelli, product director at Maurice Lacroix, said. "At the moment, we have proven functionality for the complications taken separately. Now we are focusing on making it work as a whole."

"Though we've been working very fast, we're not able to tell at this time when the watch will finally be delivered," Reginelli said. "We need some more time to ensure the final adjustments and respect the quality standards we have set ourselves. With this mechanical movement the claim 'grande complication' is maybe an understatement regarding the technical and mechanical complexity."

At the Basel fair this year, de Grisogono presented its Meccanico dG without a working prototype and Zenith did the same with its Zero-G Tourbillon.

The Meccanico dG is the first all-mechanical watch with an integrated digital display, while the Zero-G has a gyroscope cage tourbillon with an escapement mounted on cardan joints - a type of flexible driveshaft coupling - rather like marine chronometers.

The escapement, which is sensitive to changes of position, is thus kept constantly horizontal, ensuring optimal functioning of the spiral balance-wheel, critical to maintaining accuracy.

Watch manufacturers give several different reasons for presenting their future offerings to the collecting public before having a working prototype.

In the case of the Zero-G, "the only working prototype we had was at the manufacture to be improved," said Raphaël Bertschy, head of product development at Zenith: "So we decided to present a non-working sample instead of presenting an imperfect watch."

The first Zero-G will be delivered by the end of this year, he said.

At de Grisogono, other considerations applied. "In our case, it's purely for production reasons," said Fawaz Gruosi, the president and founder of the company. "We like to see the response in order to determine how to proceed in production."

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How to get the best diamond prices

Diamonds are comprised of unmodified carbon, and they are the hardest objects known to man. They are formed due to extremely high temperatures and high pressure far beneath the surface of the earth’s crust. Volcanic eruptions bring these one to three billion year old gems to the surface, where they are mined from rivers by means of dredging and sifting. Only one carat of usable diamond is found for every 250 tons of earth processed. Only 20% of diamonds found are even worthy of being used for jewelry. This is why diamonds are very expensive. They are rare and precious gems of incomparable beauty.

Diamonds are a symbol of love because of their indestructible composition. Since diamonds last forever, the commitment of love associated with marriage makes them the perfect token of devotion and adoration. A diamond ring is a sign of commitment to the person you intend on spending the rest of your life with, so choosing a diamond is a momentous occasion. Knowing what to look for in a diamond is beneficial when making this important decision.

Diamonds are graded according to cut, color, and clarity. They are graded by diamond grading laboratories that use a special scale to determine these attributes. The most recognized independent diamond grading labs are The European Gemological Laboratory, The International Gemmological Institute, and The Gemological Institute of America. You will often see the initials of these leading laboratories on diamond appraisals.

Diamonds are graded on color from “D” to “Z”. You will pay a premium price for colorless diamonds in the D, E, and F range. Brilliantly colored diamonds are the most expensive of all because they are quite rare. The most common diamond color is yellow or cognac. There are also varying shades of champagne. Blue and red diamonds exist, but are even rarer.

The clarity of a diamond is determined by flaws and inclusions within the diamond and how easy they are to see. Flawless, internally flawless, and diamonds listed under VVS and VS on the clarity chart are higher in price. Near colorless diamonds that are considered “SI” (slightly included) are the best value.

The cut of a diamond will also determine the cost. You will pay more for an “ideal cut” diamond. Diamonds considered slightly less than ideal will cost less but still offer a brilliant look.

Diamond jewelry having a serial number engraved on the side for security purposes will cost you more. If you’re on a budget, this option may be one you can do without.

Avoid mall stores when shopping for your diamond jewelry. These stores typically have higher overhead costs. Shop for your diamond jewelry in stores that offer diamond guarantees that are free of charge. Should you lose or break a diamond under normal conditions, they will repair or replace the diamond at no cost to you. Most jewelers offer this service, but most are not free.

Avoid jewelry stores that have set prices on diamonds. They guarantee low prices, but they’re not necessarily the lowest. Keep in mind, there is a HUGE mark-up on most diamond merchandise. Don’t be afraid to ask for a lower price on a diamond. Some jewelry stores will accept a lower price if you’re paying with cash rather than putting the item on layaway or paying with a credit card. Asking if the item is the best possible price could save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

Use these tips and suggestions to get the diamond jewelry you want at a price you can afford. Keep in mind that love is priceless, and you shouldn’t have to pay a fortune to get the diamond jewelry you desire.

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Watches Buying Guide-Consider Watch Materials

Determine what kind of band you want when selecting a wristwatch. There are a variety of popular styles available:
· Precious metal wristwatches: Wristwatches made of precious metals have a classic look. You can select either gold watches, sterling silver watches, or platinum watches to match whichever type of jewellery you wear. There are fancier wristwatches that even have diamond accents.
· Stainless steel wristwatches: Stainless steel, is a durable metal, commonly used for watch cases and bands.
· Aluminum wristwatches: Durable aluminum wristwatches will resist rust, tarnish, and corrosion.
· Carbon fibre wristwatches: Tough carbon fibre wristwatches have a dark colour (dark grey or black). The material is used on watch casing and dials.
· Titanium wristwatches: Sports watches often require a sturdy material like titanium which is a strong, white metal. Titanium wristwatches are 30% stronger than steel, fairly lightweight, and resist corrosion. You'll also typically find that they have a protective coating to make them scratch resistant.
· Plastic/rubber wristwatches: Some sports watches and fashion watches are made of rubber or plastic, both of which make lightweight, and sturdy bands.
If you find a watch with a face that you love, but with a leather band or rubber band that you don't like, consider buying a replacement watch band to better customise the watch to suit your taste.

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